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Saturday, August 13, 2011
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
How to Jump Start a Dead Car Battery
•To jump start a dead battery, you will need a second car with a live battery. Pull the two cars as close together as possible, making sure the cars do not touch. Turn off the engines, remove the keys, engage the emergency breaks and open the hoods on both cars.
•Start with a set of jumper cables. Each end of the jumper cable has two clamps - one red (positive) and one black (negative). An easy way to remember is to think about the color red (positive) as "hot" or "spicy" or "full of energy" and black (negative) like the ground.
•With the engine off, attach the red (positive) clamp to the red (positive) battery post on the live car's battery. Then attach the black (negative) clamp to the black (negative) post on the live car's battery.
•Attach the red (positive) clamp to the red (positive) battery post on the dead car's battery.
•Next, attach the black (negative) clamp to a piece of metal - it can be part of the frame. Do not connect it to the car's black (negative) battery post.
•Start the engine of the live car, followed by the engine of the dead car.
•Let both cars idle for a few minutes to allow enough energy to flow to the dead battery.
•Disconnect the cars beginning with the live car. Disconnect the black (negative) cable first and then the red (positive) cable. DO NOT LET THE ENDS OF RED AND BLACK JUMPER CABLES TOUCH.
•Disconnect the jumper cables from the other car.
Important Tips:
•Always consult the owner's manual of a car before jump starting a dead battery.
•The voltage from a car battery is dangerous, whether the engine is running or not. Do not touch the metal ends of the cables with your hands or touch them to each other.
•Start with a set of jumper cables. Each end of the jumper cable has two clamps - one red (positive) and one black (negative). An easy way to remember is to think about the color red (positive) as "hot" or "spicy" or "full of energy" and black (negative) like the ground.
•With the engine off, attach the red (positive) clamp to the red (positive) battery post on the live car's battery. Then attach the black (negative) clamp to the black (negative) post on the live car's battery.
•Attach the red (positive) clamp to the red (positive) battery post on the dead car's battery.
•Next, attach the black (negative) clamp to a piece of metal - it can be part of the frame. Do not connect it to the car's black (negative) battery post.
•Start the engine of the live car, followed by the engine of the dead car.
•Let both cars idle for a few minutes to allow enough energy to flow to the dead battery.
•Disconnect the cars beginning with the live car. Disconnect the black (negative) cable first and then the red (positive) cable. DO NOT LET THE ENDS OF RED AND BLACK JUMPER CABLES TOUCH.
•Disconnect the jumper cables from the other car.
Important Tips:
•Always consult the owner's manual of a car before jump starting a dead battery.
•The voltage from a car battery is dangerous, whether the engine is running or not. Do not touch the metal ends of the cables with your hands or touch them to each other.
Monday, March 14, 2011
Tools for Dummies
Here is a funny list of tools and what they usually end up being used for! Check it out!
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your drink across the room, denting the
freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner
where nothing could get to it.
SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation
of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease
inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity and facilitating more
conversations with the cute emergency room nurse while shortening
fingers.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to
cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into
the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the
outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil
on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out
Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering
your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
bottles, collector magazines, refund checks and rubber or plastic
parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in
use.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching
flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the
chest and flings your drink across the room, denting the
freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner
where nothing could get to it.
SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation
of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor
touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable
motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more
dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt
heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer
intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable
objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease
inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood
projectiles for testing wall integrity and facilitating more
conversations with the cute emergency room nurse while shortening
fingers.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground
after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack
handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to
cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into
the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the
outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength
of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under
lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil
on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out
Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering
your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is
used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts
adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of
cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly
well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic
bottles, collector magazines, refund checks and rubber or plastic
parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in
use.
Thursday, January 13, 2011
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Summer
Summer is here! Which means it's time to bring in your car for a check-up. We'll make sure your car is running to its top performance level so you can be safe on the road.
We know we have the best customers around and are so grateful for all of you!
We know we have the best customers around and are so grateful for all of you!
Thursday, August 26, 2010
What's new at Red Mountain Tire and Auto?
Hello friends!!
We are having a lot of fun here at Red Mountain Tire and Auto! We have some exciting events, deals, and offers for the new month and holiday! Come on in to see what is going on, or check our website at http://www.redmountaintire.com/ to see!! Thanks for following our blog and for doing business with us!
We are having a lot of fun here at Red Mountain Tire and Auto! We have some exciting events, deals, and offers for the new month and holiday! Come on in to see what is going on, or check our website at http://www.redmountaintire.com/ to see!! Thanks for following our blog and for doing business with us!
Friday, May 28, 2010
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